The Surf.

For those who have time, welcome. (If you don’t have time, then I’m not sure what to offer because that’s all we have…)

Off I journeyed with time on a non-recommended night bus into San Salvador, the capital. The entire aim of spending time there was to improve surfing, and discover some novelties of El Salvador. 

I enjoyed a whole week in El Tunco, home to El Sausal the most consistent point break in Central America (when swell is dead here, it’s dead everywhere). The daily routine was; wake up before sunrise, surf throughout sunrise, work, surf throughout sunset, then chill.

I started the week on a 6.5ft board, which I quickly realized was an utter waste of time at my skill level as I watched everyone snag waves with ease. So I transitioned to a 9ft board, and life was swell! After catching solid waves occasionally, I eventually started carving and riding waves… proper down the line rides for 20-60 seconds. 

Momentous shifts happened on those waves… feeling the natural power of the earth in total fluidity for an extended period of time evoked massive levels of stoke! That’s surfing I guess… another ridiculously difficult experience to express in words.

BLISS. 

If you surf, then you know.

If you don’t surf, then go surf, and catch the wave… or find your bliss elsewhere ♥

The Other.

Blessed with the experience of beautiful sunrises and blissful surfing sessions to start my day, work happily flowed until the choppier evening surf session started around sunset. Then the evening would end playing a Russian card game (similar to Fuck The Dealer) with other surfers and travellers. 

Note: The “Rules of Surf” at El Tunco didn’t apply. SUP boarders took tons of waves, and El Sausal was packed with surfers catching whatever they could… but as the week passed, comradery seemed to establish on the break.  

Pupusas were the name of the food game; corn bread balls stuffed with whatever (chicken, cheese, vegetables, beans, ect…), then pan fried into a pancake. They cost about $0.70. Needless to say, daily living was cheap – $10 for a board, $10 for accommodation, and about $5 for food (pupusas, smoothies, brownies, acai bowls, horchatas). 

Beyond the time surfing, there was an opportunity to explore some tidal caves south of El Tunco about 20 minutes walking down the beach. With hotels and massive homes perched on the cliffside, these caves created a unique space to explore other natural wonders beyond the magical surf breaks. 

Throughout the time spent in El Tunco, I had the pleasure of sharing time with Gabby, a ski-touring guide from Canmore, Canada. Gabby helped me with my surf, which was rad… but more than anything we shared quality time and stories, played cards, and (quite frankly) she put up with my quirky nerdy nature. I’ve said this before, but it’s always worth repeating… sharing travels with people amplifies the experience and pushes horizons forward. 

Thank you Gabby for being the bomb.com – a total badass, and boss! 

Keep it kaizen.