Patagonia: El Bolson + Bariloche, Argentina

This place is sooo hard to write about – I’d rather just write a song… but that’s coming later.

For now, I’ll start with El Bolson. The town that founded hippy-culture in Argentina. This town is nestled between remote lakes and mountains a few hours south of Bariloche (the largest town in Argentina’s patagonia region). After crossing the Chile-Argentina border, I spent the weekend hanging out in Refugios (esstentially user-maintained mountain huts), on the Rio Asure. There were 12+ refugios to access from the Wharton trailhead.

There was a craft brewery at the trailhead, ran by an amigo from San Francisco. But I decided to wait on the beer until after… so up the trails I went, with 2 travelling companions. By the time we reach the last refugios +12km up the Rio Asure we had crossed wonderfully sketchy bridges, stepped over towering canyon walls, and sat on sheep wool benches.

The place was epic. The next day, I spent exploring the local artisan farmer’s market/fair while soaking in the quaint culture of the town before heading north to Bariloche.

BARILOCHE… it was legendary.

(If I wrote out everything that happened, It would be a whole chapter… watch the video for detailed stories)

Phase 1: Bariloche

(OVERVIEW – Bariloche is a Swiss, Germany, Italian settlement. So great chocolate, beer, and food… for cheap with easy access to amazing nature.)

7 lake drive – stunning. Like the sea to sky highway from Vancouver to Whistler… with patagonia flair.
Several local hikes using local transit that were all breathtaking. One was rated Top 10 Hikes by National Geographic.
Craft beer $4 CAD a pint. Birthday celebration for Itaai’s birthday! (new Israeli friend)
Boxes of chocolate $12 CAD – in Canada they’d easily be $40+ CAD
Local pasteries… to die for.

Phase 2: Refugio Frey

Hiked through 3 micro climates to get there.
4 hrs – 1 way. All in my birkenstocks.
Hiked in Sunday, hiked out Monday, THEN worked from 4pm onwards… love the digital nomad life.
Free climbed / scrambled up a peak – after having a PROFOUND life experience. See video #2 below.
Woke up to frost on my sleeping bag…. no tent… still sending it!

Phase 3: Shelter on the Lake – Los Coihues

WONDERFUL FAMILY – open guesthouse for travellers… word of mouth only.
Celebrated American Thanksgiving/Shabbat with them and other travellers.
Deep philosophical conversations and other chats about the impact of media.
Rock climbing. The father Dylan had set over a dozen local sport climbing routes in the area. He was a legend.
3 days of climbing, learning and supporting newbie climbers.
Last day – 5:30am wake up, climbed a 5.11a (probably a 5.10c in retrospect)… 11:00am flight to Mendoza with window seat overlooking northern Patagonia mountain ranges
Nearly missed my flight because I had no local cash for the taxi… luckily he took Chilean peso for me!!

Lessons Learnt:

When climbing internationally. Either bring all your gear, or just the barebones.
Life can be live in one moment, and should.
Love and give your gift unconditionally.